Saturday, January 15, 2022

Two Book Reviews - American Kingpin & Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World

I wanted to read non-fiction books that read like page-turner fictions . A summer beach read with the exception that it should be a real story. I got to know about American Kingpin by Sam Parr on Twitter.  He had shared about this book and everyone in comments had very good things to say about it. Plus, it is from my world - that is tech, not drugs. 

For Ghenghis Khan, I was not looking for him. Browsing through museums in Germany, I wanted to know more about these artifacts. I had no idea about Napolean, Ottoman empire or the new German-Prussia wars. A lot of these artifacts were part of conquests, culture exchange after winning wars and some trade. Bavarian Kings made me wanted to read more about war of the roses. So, I was searching for such historic non-fiction but it should be narrative and fun. That's how I landed on the Chenghis Khan's book. I had once read that many men today are descendents of Genghis and this has always fascinated me. How did this happen? So, this incorrect tidbit sealed the deal. 

Both books were read during the Germany trip - one on the onward flight and second one during return. Especially waiting at the airport to get the results of the test, was made much easier by this book. 


Book I

American Kingpin : The Epic Hunt for the Criminal Mastermind Behind the Silk Road

By Nick Bilton

American Kingpin is a story of Ross Ulbright, a libertarian, who believed of an ideal world where people should be able to do whatever they want to do. To realize his ideas, he thought the best way to apply them is on the item that is most restricted - drugs. Ross Ulbright built a website, named it Silk Route, which is an Amazon-like marketplace to sell all kinds of drugs. Completely illegal, yet Ross built an empire and at its top, the website had GMV in billions of dollars, Rolls Ulbright as the sole founder made millions. 

Ross went by his online persona of Dead Pirates Robber. Hosted in the dark web, behind Tor, payments were handled by bitcoins to keep everything anonymous. It is amazing that Ross made everything on his own, given that he did not even have a formal CS background or degree. Even at its peak, there were very few engineers, very few support people and only one manager - Ross himself

The book is a story of how different law enforcement agencies were involved in tracking this website. Traditional Narco bureaus were adept at handling street level drugs. Online drug marketplace, that too on dark web, anonymous payments via bitcoins, it was too much for them. There was a customs angle since drugs were often couriered from outside US. Customs would open packets based on some hunch and realize that it contains small capsules. There was a finance angle to trace the anonymous bitcoin transactions, which at some point will be converted to real cash. And FBI was involved who eventually were able to crack the case with the help of other agencies. But it was not easy.

As Silk Route became successful, there were attacks on the website. Employees tried to steal from Dead Pirates robber. Dirty cops came in to give tips to DPR in exchange of cash. Drug mafia was involved as they were the top sellers. Silk Route expanded its inventory to include weapons and all other illegal things. But where DPR crossed the line was that it used the mafia and underworld to order killings of human beings who posed a risk to his business. Yes, there were killings too. 

It all feels surreal, given the way it all started. Ross Ulbright wanted to prove a point - that libertarian philosophy is indeed the way to live. He was a failure in his life until he made the Silk Route. His idea behind Silk route was to prove that a safer drug trade platform will lead to lower street crime, regulate the bad/fraud drugs that are coming in and eventually will lead to reforms in the entire ecosystem. 

One of my favorite part of the book is a classic startup question - In any marketplace, how do you solve the day-zero problem. There will not be sellers until there are customers and there will not be customers until there are products from sellers. Dead Pirates Robber also realized this problem. DPR's way to solve this was the same as how a typical startup will solve it. DPR grew his own weed and sold it on SilkRoute to get early set of customers. Yes, he made drugs to get customers and quickly recovered his investment and made a lot of profit. Thus proving his MVP and there is a genuine demand. Supply came after that this was a loop more viral than Uber or Airbnb. SilkRoute had a monopoly here. There were copycat websites but by focussing on customers and execution, DPR was able to shake them off. 

The book focusses a lot on DPR's personal life, how he ran this empire unknown to his parents, friends and everyone around him. Book also covers his mentors who became his partners in crime. It is a fascinating story. It reads like a thriller even which you know the murderer but the fun is to see how the killer will be caught. The struggle of different law enforcement agencies, ego clashes between departments, desire to get the eventual credit, bad actors and general bureaucratic processes makes it seem like a miracle that DPR was caught.

Recommended more than a fiction. 3.5/5


Book II

Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World

By Jack Weatherford



Genghis Khan is reviled in today's times. He was a barbarian. Murderer of entire cities. Brutal. Merciless. 

But we know very little of Genghis Khan. Where was he born, where is he buried. How did he managed to conquer so many cities, entire Asia, Russia and parts of Europe?  A conquest that has no parallel.  His legacy is still with us. For example - Mughals are descendants of him. There exists no painting of him, except one which is not confirmed. Written records, scant that they are, were also made by his descendants who fought wars in his name, often with each other. 

Jack Weatherford's book, a controvertial one, brings clarity to this significant chapter of history. In order to get to balance, he tilts the book in favor of Genghis and argues that modern world, especially trade and exchange of culture is owed to Genghis Khan. While it may be controversial, the book is indeed needed. It is important to know how one man can influence so much of history. 

Genghis Khan was born in a forest-dwelling tribe where wars between factions of tribe were very common. Not a warrior by choice, he was forced to become one to keep himself and family secure. The first part of Weatherford's book traces the roots of Genghis and how he rose to become a ruler who unified all tribes of Mongolia by ruling over them. Mongolia had nothing to boast of  in terms of weaponry or science. But, its men were brave, strong and knew how to ride horses. Genghis Khan was truly special - he also had a lot of military strategem coming naturally to him. But it was honed by his need for survival and that too in harsh conditions.

Once Mongolia is unified under Genghis, he wanted peace and to maintain trade relationships with his neighbors. But they rebuked him. Just like upper caste and lower caste can not have good relations, his neighbors looked down upon him. Sometimes, they also attacked him. Genghis replied and conquered them all. 

He came up with strategies to destroy walled castles by cutting off them from food supply. He built dams and redirected river on to flood castles. He rode over iced rivers and attacked from routes which were not considered possible. His army only had horses no foot soldiers making him move fast. They did not carry food, they would hunt animals and make food. Such strategies were unheard of. 

Genghis did all this because he broke a lot of stereotypes. He valued people with abilities and made them generals and in his inner coterie, preferring them over his blood relatives which was the custom. He was a great listener. He adapted well to science. When he conquered cities, he asked the doctors, pharmacists, scientists to move with him. This allowed great inter-mingling of scientific ideas which led more military prowess in later years. 

After covering Genghis Khan's era, book moves forward to his sons and grandsons who expanded the empire. Here, with so much ground to cover, the book lacks depth and moves fast. The empire was brought down by the bubonic plague.  The downfall was as swift as the rise. Plague affected both the kings and the citizens. 

Given that Genghis Khan did not want to glorify himself, there were no statues by him, no monuments, no castles. Genghis did not build any castle, he himself lived like a commoner. There are records but of the science, of the trade, of culture but not for the man himself. Hence, the history has been lost. In modern history, to keep Mongolia away from being unified with nationalist feelings, using Genghis' name, little effort has gone in when compared to other such conquerors such as Napolean. 

The author talks at length on the positive qualities of Genghis - he allowed all religions to co-exist, there was no torture - death was often swift, his organization building skills and political acumen. Genghis used to murder the elite and then picked good administrators to rule in his stead. But he significantly downplays the destruction or terror brought down by this. In one para, an entire village of thousands was killed because Genghis' son-in-law was killed.  The author's point is that Genghis was far more gentle in victories as compared to his peers. It may be true but difficult to confirm.

But it is clear that the accomplishments of Genghis were massive. His contribution in making the modern world is significant. It should be studied more. This book is a good start for folks like me. 

3.5/5



Sunday, January 9, 2022

Germany 2021 - The City Tourist

 This is part 3 of the three post series. 


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Someone asked me - what is the best part of your Germany trip?
For me, it has been the cultural aspects. How much different is Germany from India. The focus on following rules (order) is so natural here.  Let me share some examples
At our Berlin walking tour, I booked online which specified the place and time of departure. At the departure point, the tour guide did not check for any list of attendees. He waited exactly 5 minutes for folks to show up and then tour left. 
At the train station, the train comes to the platform track 5 mins before the departure time, even when the station is the origin station. It comes and in 5 mins it departs. 
People stop for the walking light to turn green even when no car is coming. 
Christmas markets were crowded but there was no pushing or jostling. 
Focus on preserving their past, even though some of it is so shameful, there is a closure that they have. 
It is a culture where punctuality is a fact of life. Following rules is a natural thing. Contrast such things from India, this was something that I cherished most from Germany. 

Day 8 (24-Dec)
Germany shuts down for Christmas (and on 31st Dec too). All museums were closed on 24th/25th. All shops/restaurants were only open till 2 pm. Keeping this in mind, we decided to spend this day on touristy places where you can click photos from outside only. Our first stop was the #1 rated place in Munich - the MarrienPlatz

One mistake in hindsight we did was to not book any walking tour of the city. So, without that, it was limited to clicking photos of beautiful buildings with little insight. We climbed up the St. Peter's cathedral (~150 stairs/14 floors) and got a good view from there. 


Munich is famous for its Oktoberfest. But they celebrate beer year around. We went to this iconic place - Hofbräuhaus München (a place with 62K reviews as of this writing with 4.4 stars) . They give beers in 1Litre jugs and it is massive. They also had a nice orchestra playing for Christmas. It was packed inside! 


By the evening time, everything was closed and we also came back to hotel. How do you celebrate Christmas being in a hotel? For us, the answer is simple. You do so by watching a christmas movie. We saw Klaus - an animation film which deals with the origin of Santa Claus. It is very well made and we had lot of fun watching it. 


Day 9 (25-Dec) 
Merry Christmas!
We had hoped for snow at Munich but all we got was rain. We purchased umbrella which travelled back to BLR :)
Our first activity of the day was to go to walk in Munich garden - Hofgarten. We did a 2 hr walk inside this garden. There were very few people and weather was really good! (We had come down from -11 of Fussen to positive in Munich) Cities that have such large garden space at the middle of it are really lucky. 



After the walk, we came back near our hotel and had brunch at Coffee Fellows - a good coffee chain in Germany. After that, we had to get a Covid test and finding a centre that was open on 25th took sometime. With the test done, our next step was the The Munich Documentation Centre for the History of National Socialism. On Dec 25th, this was the only museum that I could find that was open. 

The Munich Documentation Centre for the History of National Socialism is one of my best stops in Germany. I had not remembered but Munich was actually the birthplace of Nazi Party. This museum documented the contribution of Munich to the rise of party and how the city has coped after world war 2. This history is fascinating. All the anti-semitism took birth here, Himmler was a Munich man, first concentration camp was setup in Dachau (near Munich) 

One of the best part of history was how Munich folks reconciled with their complicity in this progrom. War had impacted them badly, so their first reaction was that 'Hey, even we suffered'. This was followed by active removal of all places related to Nazi party. Only after couple of generations, in 1980s, there was a keen interest to preserve this part of history. 

Germany's perseverance of its past, even though it is so shameful is very commendable. We saw this again in Berlin.  One of the guides told so, later in Berlin, that Germany's first article of its constitution is 'Human dignity shall be inviolable'. This has shaped a lot of its ethos of nation-building and continues to do so even today. 


We spent close to 3+ hrs in this museum. Only to leave because we had a train to catch to Berlin. THe museum building used to be the actual headquarters back of Nazi party in the old days. Aside from historic information, the museum also has this advice boards on how should one behave to avoid a repeat of such episodes. This is one such photo 




One call out to websites in Germany - they are truly multi-lingual. Each good website has by default a German text and a menu option to see the whole site in English. For more fancy sites, they have translations in French & Italian as well. This is an excellent example on how to preserve native language yet make it available for non-native speakers as well. I had not seen this anywhere previously


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Day 10 (26-Dec)
Hello Berlin!
Our stay at Berlin was at Park Plaza, Kundam. Our train reached at midnight and we took the Uber to reach hotel. Hotel was ok. This was only stay with breakfast included. German veg breakfast was common everywhere - Bread (variety and good), carious cheese options, cut salad (cucumber, bell peppers, tomatoes) and boiled eggs. At this hotel, they also had flavored curd, scrambled eggs and some more fancy desserts. 

We started the day by taking a walking tour organized by Origin Berlin tours. Actually, this is the first time I recall taking a city walking tour outside. We took a food-walk in Vietnam but it was ok. This one however was excellent. We took two more tours in Germany and guided tours has been a great experience.  

This Berlin tour covered some history, key buildings - Museum Island, Charlie Point (a guarded patrol point earlier between East/West Germany), Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, Brandenburg gate and few others. 



Of all the places, memorials that I have ever visited the memorial to murdered Jews has been the best one. It is very basic, no names, just stones of different sizes laid out in a grid. The stones start with a lesser height early and then move up in height. No explanation is given, our tour guide also left the interpretation to us but perhaps, it signals intolerance. (It does for me)
While it was very very cold that day in Berlin, we were walking in -6 to -8, there was frost on our eyebrows, this particular memorial touched me. I wish we could have spent more time here.




After the walking tour, we rushed to find a restaurant where we can sit and warm ourselves. We found Peter Pane - a burger place with many vegan/veg options. Post lunch, we returned back to hotel. 

After resting for an hr or so, we headed out to the Kundam christmas market. Surprisingly Berlin decided to keep its markets open till Jan 2, lucky for us. There were three of those and we visited each one :) 




Our night activity was to attend a performance by Berlin Philharmonique Orchetra. They had a concert to play popular classical pieces. The concert was amazing. The last piece was Ravel's Bolero  and it still rings in my ears now. 

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Day 11
Day 11 was the visit to local zoo & acquarium. This was close to our hotel as well. Berlin zoo is famous for having Panda (thanks to Chinese diplomacy). Overall, the zoo also meant walking a lot and in colder conditions. But the walk was good. Many animals were indoors due to cold weather but we still saw Pink famingos, Penguins, hippopotamus (floating in water), Pandas and a whole variety of monkeys (Gorillas, chimpanzee and the likes) 
Acquarium is ok, but can be skipped. 



We shifted our hotel and moved to a homestay which was near Mitte - Berlin city apartments. This was a good place, full 1BHK. We moved here to get a washing machine which was sadly not here. 

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Day 12 (28-Dec)
28 Dec started by going to a laundromat :) I found one which opened at 6 am. Today's plan was museum visit. 
We first went to the German historical museum which has a collection of sculpture and paintings by known German architects. Museums had guided English audio tours which made it easier to understand some of the context behind the art pieces.



We spent close to three hrs here and then headed for lunch at a nearby Thai place. Post lunch, we went to a second museum  - Neues museum . This one was ok, mainly consisted of Egyptian history that German archeologist found out. 

We went to the geramandermarket - yet another christmas market. We had the gluwien and had  a flat pizza along with a new dish - Langos - basically a Bhatoora with cheese and some. 

Our night activity was to attend an Opera. This was first opera of our lives. We saw La Bohemian by Giovani. They had subtitles in English which made it very easy to follow. Like a play but mostly with music, this is known as introduction to Opera for noobs. Interesting experience !






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Day 13
Today started by shifting hotel. We went to Hotel Berlin Mitte by Campanile for tonight. Our plans have been dynamic in the trip and we shifted hotels to find a more economical option.  This was followed by a great breakfast at Wayne's coffee at Friedrickstrasse. 
Day 12's agenda was to visit a concentration camp - Sachsenhausen concentration camp. We took a tour by Insider tours this time. Our tour guide had a PhD in tourism with research in dark tourism (tourism that takes you to graveyards, memorials and concentration camps). The concentration camp was cold, not in temperature but just the history of it. The tour guide was the best part and he did a great job in explaining the history of the place.  The history in itself was cruel. 160K prisoners lived here out of which <30K survived. 

The camp was outside of Berlin and by the time we reached back, it was ~2pm. Looking for lunch, this was the first time we saw entry denied to a restaurant by not accepting Covishield. It happened at two places back to back but the third one, a Vietnamese place, a sensible one accepted us. This was also the best Vietnamese food of the trip. Everywhere else, we had absolutely zero trouble in getting into any museum/restaurant/anywhere. 

Our last Berlin thing was the Pergamonmuseum - an archaeological museum. We only had an hr before the museum closed but the collection here is amazing. Very large scale and very unique! 


Before we said goodbye to Berlin, it was time to visit another Christmas market, this one at Alexanderplatz. Our fifth market. We had fancy food, drink and did some souvenir shopping. 





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Day 14 (30-Dec)
We boarded an early morning train back to Frankfurt. By the time we reached Frankfurt it was 11 am. Train tickets were getting expensive. But more importantly, we realized that 31st Dec will be a shutdown. So, if we have to have any hope of shopping, it has to be done on 30th December

Our stay at 30th was at 5Elements hostel. Located in the middle of red-light district, you can see drug junkies and all adult-entertainment shops nearby. But even with that, it is a completely safe area. So safe that it also a Sarvana Bhavan at one corner and after two weeks of eating non-Indian food, we were ready for Idlis & dosas

Rest of the evening was spent in shopping first at Skyline Plaza mall and later at Zeil mall / street. 

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Day 15 (31st December)
A new day and a new hotel change. This time it was Niu Carly, near to 5 elements. We had booked this while in BLR and continued with the reservation. Breakfast was at 5Elements - regular bread & Cheese. 

Nothing was open on 31st. All museums were closed. Due to pandemic, no fireworks (public or private) were happening. I was thinking that we should have flown back on 31st itself. But our tickets were for 1st Jan. 

Inspired by Berlin walks, I googled Frankfurt walks and was redirected to frankfurtonfoot.com Their website that they do tours 365 days, no exceptions. So, without booking, we reached at the starting point at the right time and turns out, there was indeed a tour going out. 
Our guide was an American who has moved to Germany, 60+ age who was very candid in sharing his thoughts, because he has crossed 60.  The tour was awesome, we went to the Alte church, got historical context, went to Jewish cemetery, Jewish memorial wall, saw a local farmer's market and had some great Greek food, German stock exchange. It was a 3.5 hr tour and gave so much color to Frankfurt. 

Outside the German stock exchange, there are statues of the bear and a bull. Contrast to the NewYork stock exchange, or at Chicago, there is only a bull. This shows the mindset of German countries who know that there are both sides of the stock market. This was just one of the amazing tidbits that were shared by our guide. 




For 31st night, we stepped out for an Asian fusion cuisine restaurant in Frankfurt - Kokumy. It was yummy dinner and a good way to end the year. 

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Day 16 & day 17 (1st-2nd Jan)
Our flight was to depart Frankfurt at 1030 am. We left our hotel at 6 am. We had a valid PCR test done. We were set. Reached the airport on time and all was good. Unfortunately, the Air India flight had a technical issue and flight was delayed. After spending 4 more hrs of waiting, they finally cancelled the fight and gave us accommodation at a nearby Hilton hotel - Steinberger hotel. 
So, with this, we had one more night stay, at a different hotel, this one free of cost though. 

We finally flew the next day and landed in India Sunday midnight 1 am. At India, we had to undergo another PCR test upon landing. We booked the cheapest option, INR 500 per person, with the caveat that results will come in 6 hrs. We were ok to wait.  
Result came at 440 am and we reached home at around 6 am. The process was very smooth. 


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We stayed at 11 hotels in a 16 night trip. We covered 6 cities (Frankfurt-Trier-BadenBaden-Fussen-Munich-Berlin-Frankfurt) 
We gave 12 Covid tests -  11 Rapid free of cost and one PCR at 100 Euros (required for travel)

My top 3 experiences were the baths in BadenBaden, castles in Schwanagu, museum of National socialist party in Berlin and the walking tours (ok, so 4 things)

Overall, Germany is a delightful country to visit, especially during these times. Folks are more jovial than in general. We found folks to be really helpful during our trip. From the Fussen owner who would charge only 6-euros for breakfast and even give plastic bags to pack lunch, to our tour guides who really answered all the questions. Restaurant folks were really kind and patient. 
The ease of access for testing, making it free of cost was very well done. Restaurants, malls, museums, it was checked everywhere and they were patient to hear us because ours was a non-EU certificate. 
The connectivity via trams/buses/underground-metro is excellent. We used all modes of transport in Berlin & Munich. It was very easy to follow once you understand how it works. Google-maps integration is also very helpful. 

In not so good things - water. It was ver difficult to get normal water to drink at restaurants. For some reason, they refuse to serve tap water. It was difficult, especially for me who likes water every few hrs.  
The only other thing is that at few places, signs were in German only. We used Google translate app many times to get the english version. This was ok at many places except in few museums where you could not get anything to read. 


I may not visit Germany again, only because there are so many places to travel. But, I could see myself living there, like New Zealand :) 

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These blogs were written during self-isolation at home which is required by Indian govt. We are in the last day of a 7-day quarantine because we travelled from Germany. 

Germany 2021 - Breathing the Countryside Air

 

This is part 2 of the three post series. 


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This was meant to be a backpacker trip. We will travel via trains, foot etc. We should be nimble. This video by EagleCreek  helped a lot. But at the last minute, we decided to pack our laptops as well. If we go into quarantine for any reason, laptop will be needed. BLR airport was empty and the immigration officer gave a strange look when he heard that I was going for tourism. 


Day 1 - Frankfurt (17 Dec) 
My first impression in Frankfurt was that English is not the first language here. The train station ticket kiosk was difficult to follow until someone came and helped me in buying the tickets. Day 1 night stay was at Hotel Adler. Good budget hotel. 

After checking in, we immediately started our walk towards the Frankfurt Christmas market.  Frankfurt christmas market was a 1.4 km mark and along the way, we saw the giant Euro sign and walked next to the river flowing through the city. We saw the Romer but the churches were closed. We will see this again in the last day. 




Christmas markets are definitely a treat! The first think that we did was to have hot wine - gluhwein. It was cold and the hot mulled wine definitely warmed the body. Later, we also tried Feurzengenbowle which is a hot rum based drink and it was very strong. German drink guide is here. Maybe it was the first time, but Frankfurt drinks were the best. The Frankfurt market was also huge.  I bought a woolen head band and strolled the streets. 

We had some garlic bread at the market and later had dinner at Babam restaurant - a Turkish cuisine. Babam food was good. 

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Day 2
Day 2 started early with us checking out and going to collect the vehicle. We got Opal Astra a fairly decent sized vehicle. At Adler hotel, we had asked for local recommendations and that became our first stop - Rudesheim am Rhein

Rudesheim am Rhein is a quaint village town on the way from Frankfurt to Trier. It is a place where we wish we should have stayed. It is very idyllic, paved with cobblestones with very lazy feeling. We first went to the Niederwalddenkmal - a monument dedicated to commemorate the unification of Germany in 1800s. 



After having breakfast at Rudemsheim, we headed to Trier where we stayed at Fourside Plaza hotel - a typical franchise kind of hotel. 

At Trier, we first went to the cathedral museum which had lots of exhibits from the older palace that was destroyed. Germany had a nice technique to recreate the original. They would draw the original picture and then on top of it place pieces of the wall pieces found from the excavation. Even though the pieces are incomplete, the final image looks complete because of the background image. We saw this technique again in Berlin museums as well. 

Unfortunately, the cathedral closed early this day. So, we spent the remainder time at the Trier christmas market. Trier had two circles of market, we visited both. Had the best pizza of the trip, made freshly in the oven. I bought leather gloves. The market was smaller than Frankfurt but very crowded and had a very festive look. It was just outside cathedral, in the downtown and the entire town was checked up. This gave a very holiday feeling. We also walked to the Karl Marx statue, walked to the Porta Nigra. It was quiet cold and ofcourse we had gluwein. Less today since I had to drive :)

Covid tests - In Germany, many places required a valid negative Rapid test report that is not older than 24 hrs or a PCR test not older than 48 hrs. While browsing the Frankfurt market, we by chance saw a testing station who said that they can do our Rapid test for free. In Germany, govt had made the Rapid test for free for its citizens, while for non-citizens it is 15-euros per person. But at many places. we got freely tested.  

In the trip, we had a test done almost daily. Special shout-out to the German govt, they have really made the testing easier. There were test stations literally everywhere. This was super easy for us and except one, all of them did the test for free for us. This was amazing. The amount of effort taken to open so many testing stations, and give a report via email in 20 mins, we saw this in city after city and I was really impressed. 

At Trier, we found one such testing station and this one had the longest queue since you can only enter the market with a negative report. We waited 45 mins in this queue and this was our longest wait time. At everyplace else, we were able to get the test done in < 5 mins.

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Day 3

We checked out early. The plan was to drive down to Baden-Baden but visit the Heidelberg castle along the way. We briefly stopped at a Bäckerei Braunshausen Ruwer  on the highway. German bakeries and breads are really good. A cheese sandwhich became our staple breakfas during the entire trip.

Hiedelberg castle was good. It was a huge castle, sadly destroyed a lot by wars. It also hosts a pharmacy museum which is really good one. It traces the roots & evolution of pharmacy in Germany. Germans call it apothecary and they are everywhere in Germany. It is a fascinating part of the culture. 



We also took a toy train to go up to top to see the castle from up above. Lunch was again at a Persian/Turkish restaurant called Sahara in downtown Hiedelberg. Being a fan of turkish cuisine, this was very enjoyable. More so, because you get to sit inside a warm restaurant and enjoy hot food. Outside, it was getting colder. We also saw a church at Hiedelberg. Downtown was again full of lights and festive spirit. 

We reached Baden-Baden around 430 pm and it was already dark. Here we stayed at Zaunkonig apartment, a rented 1BHK with kitchen and washing machine.  This was for me the best accommodation for the trip. Washing machine meant that we can do a quick wash here. We also cooked meals for the next day using the kitchen.
Once settled in, we went to the Friedrichsbad bathhouse. German sauna & baths are an experience and we really wanted to try it out, even though it meant being textile free which is a requirement. Friedrichsbad had a 17 step process where you go first from one Sauna to other where temperature goes from 55degrees to 85 and then you relax in various pools where temp decreases in every step. The final pool is literally cold water and I went and took a dip in it. The experience was lovely and very unique. Baths are very well maintained with locker and other facility. 

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Day 4
Day 3 started by having breakfast at cafe Konig - a local favorite. This was followed by a stroll on Lichtentaler Allee. Very beautiful walk which would be even better in summer months. But after having a hectic previous day, this was leisure walk in nature. Amount of green open space is amazing. 





After the walk, we went to the other bath Caracalla spa. Caracalla is cheaper compared to Friedrichsbad and is almost a water park inside. It is a different design, there are different temperature controlled Sauna rooms upstairs and water pools down below. Here, I tried the 90deg for 20 mins, and 95 degree Sauna for 5 mins only. The water pools also go outside and it was amazing to be in hot water while the outside was freezing cold. After the baths, we cooked pasta at the homestay. 

The dinner activity was to visit the Baden-Baden casino, a 200+ year old casino where it is required to be in dress-code of tie and jacket. Fortunately, they allow jackets on rent. I played Holdem and eventually broke even from where I started. 

Baden baden market was also very lit. Even though there was no christmas market, it was decorated in style. Baden Baden is also an expensive town. There was also an ice skating rink here which I wanted to try out but didn't.



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Day 5 (21 Dec) 

Day 4 was a long drive through the Black forest to Fussen. Black forest is scenic this time of the year, a lot of folks come here for Skiing at various points. We saw many Ski resorts along the way. The drive indeed was scenic. Along the way, we had plans to stop at multiple places but couldn't because of snow. Our first stop was at Mummelsee lake which was completely frozen. We did a round of the lake walking on snow and ice literally.



After this, we had plans to stop at Black forest open air museum which was closed. Along the way, we stopped at a gift shop which had 1000+ cuckoo clocks and world's largest cuckoo clock. 




By the time we reached Fussen, temperature was -11 degree. We got our Covid test done and went to the homestay. Here we stayed at a 700 year old property. The night dinner was at a local Thai restaurant. 
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Day 6 (22-Dec) 
Day 5 was all about castles - Neuschwanstein castle and Hohenschwangau castle. We took an English audio guide tour and it was useful. Neuschwanstein was built by Ludwig II and it is really lavish from inside. Unfortunately photography was prohibited. 
Our breakfast was at the homestay and the sweet hotel owner also gave bags to pack for lunch - bread, cheese and a sandwhich. 
Temperature was negative (around -9) during the day. But the castles are really beautiful and worth the visit. We took the horse cart too to go up the castle. 










Our dinner was at a local German restaurant where we ordered Käsespetzle or cheese Spatzel (one of the two veg options) with a side of salad. Spatzel is cheesy noodles (sometimes macaroni too) with fried onion on top. With 





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Day 7 (23-Dec) 
Our original plan was to go back to Baden-Baden and then cross the border to France at Strasbourg. But on day 3, we saw that Germany had put France in high-risk list. This meant that anyone coming into Germany from a high risk nation had to do a mandatory 14-day quarantine. 
Our return flight was from Frankfurt, so we had to come back. We tried to check if we can get flight back from France but no flight was available.  We checked if we can go back to the Hungary-Austria itinerary but even that was not feasible. Hungary had placed restrictions that you can enter if you have a valid reason to enter and tourism was not one of the valid reasons. Austria continued its policy against Covishield
Covid cases were rising across all neighbors of Germany. Netherlands also announced that a christmas lockdown. Germany already had many restrictions on and they continued. 
In light of all this, we made the call to remain in Germany only. We changed our car drop location from BadenBaden to Munich and decided to travel to Munich & then later to Berlin. 

We left Fussen early and drove to Munich. At Munich, we stayed at City Aparthotel - a part hotel, part apartment kind of setup. Its main feature was that it was close to many attractions.  After returning the rental car, we were able to get a Covid test centre fairly quickly. After the test, our stop was Nymphenburg palace. A grand palace, open to public where photos were allowed. Our king Ludwig II was born here. 




I also learnt how to take panorama photo here from a photographer who clicked the above photo :) Palace is palatial, wall murals are amazing. 

After the Nymphenberg palace we went to the science museum - Deutsches museum. Dinner was ordered via UberEats from a Mexican restaurant. Word of advice - Germany is not at all a good place for Mexican food, a lesson I learnt much later. 

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A note on driving in Germany 

Highway driving was amazing. The logic is very simple - you always overtake on the left. Once you overtake, you come back to the right lane. Everyone follows this.  Like everything German, it was effortless.  Even the high speed car that would overtake you will merge into the right lane ahead. No one was just driving on the left most lane. This discipline is amazing. I rarely saw any cop cars too. 

There was no upper speed limit. Saw cars going upto 250km/hr as well. My speedometer went upto 300+. The black forest one was in particular one very scenic. Wherever eyes would go on left or right, it was cover with snow. 

I drove less in city but it was hectic. Primarily because of lack of knowledge and too many vehicles. 

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From here on, we were in cities - Munich then Berlin and lastly in Frankfurt. We were lucky that we got to see both the countryside and city-life of Berlin. The country side part of the itinerary was way more experiential. We got the best christmas markets, scenic views, castles and the baths were an amazing experience. This part of the trip was also better planned since this itinerary was set.  Our earlier plan was to go to Strasbourg/Paris. Munich became our Strasbourg and Berlin our Paris. Our itinerary and stay would be decided almost in real time. 


Saturday, January 8, 2022

Germany 2021 - To go or not to go






Those who think of a Euro-trip, do they think of France, Italy, Netherlands ? Or do they think of Germany? Are there people who are thinking of a Euro trip at-all in these Corona times?

This post is how we picked Germany, how does one plan a trip and then re-plan it and then plan it a 3rd time.  This is first post on my three posts for Germany.


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How it began?
December holidays are too good to be missed for a vacation. In 2020, the pandemic scared us to be at home, but we made great use of it by getting cats. 2021 has been an equally busy year, so a year end break is a well deserved one :)
But what do you do if you are at Oct-end with no plans at all? One is to think domestically. That was quickly moved to a backup plan.  For international travel, you start looking at countries which (A) are allowing you to travel and (B) have a visa on-arrival. 
This quick check will land you in Thailand, a place where I have not been there but many Indians have gone there. So, you say why not? Good nature, affordable and closer to India as well. A quick flight check showed that the round trip to Thailand from BLR is ~INR 60K per person. What? Turns out, everyone is going to Thailand and flights have limited seats left. 
Here is how the mind works now - 60K is 3 times what I would pay. who is playing 60K for Thailand? 60K is what I would pay for a US trip or a trip to Europe. Wait, Europe. oh, I can go to Europe. 

BLR-France-BLR -> 85K
BLR-Italy-BLR -> 1L+
BLR-Amsterdam-BLR -> 90K
BLR-UK-BLR -> Some travel restrictions
BLR-Frankfurt-BLR -> 65K

ooh, Frankfurt. yay! 
Land in Frankfurt, travel across Europe (because Schengen) & then fly back. This is doable. 

Plus, India has air-bubble agreement with Germany. 
But what to do in Germany? Won't it be too cold? 

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Germany - An ideal Christmas destination!

Germany, it turns out, is one of the best places to visit during Christmas. Christmas markets, a fair/carnival/flea market, is an amazing festive atmosphere, with christmas trees, lights and alcohol and lots of food to eat. Christmas markets originated in Germany. As a lover of Indian flea markets, I immediately liked this. 
Next, I had always meant to travel to Germany to understand more about its past about Nazi party and World-war 2. I had read the book - The rise and fall of Third Reich by William Shirer in 2020, and I had always meant to visit Germany after that. 
Plus Germany borders with Austria, Hungary, so they can be cool places to visit. 

But, a key insight upon research, most of the German Christmas markets close by Christmas or before that. So, if that is motivation #1, the trip has to start before. Hence, we moved the dates a week before, departing at 17th December to experience this. Also, 16 days is better than 10 days :) New Zealand trip was also 16 days, so there is precedent :). Mind can convince you of anything. 

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Schengen VISA
While the process of Schengen VISA is simple, the process requires that you should have booked all your flights and hotels before you apply for the VISA. 
I took the appointment a week later, so that meant, I had a week to plan the entire itinerary, research airbnbs, hotels and book them. It meant a week of extra 3 hr shifts, post work, to get everything in order. Here was the plan 
Frankfurt - Dresden - Nuremberg - Munich - Budapest - Vienna - Frankfurt

Why Dresden ? Because Christmas markets were founded here. And Slaughterhouse Five. So it goes...
Why Nuremberg? Because of the trials.
And things followed from there on. Berlin was ruled out since it was at the other corner. 

And finally thanks to booking.com for all the fully refundable options without making upfront payment. So, we had 16 nights of fully refundable bookings. 

The Visa interview happened on 15th November. At the VFS center for Schengen VISA, there is a counter for every Schengen country & UK. A good way to see which country has visitors lining up. Turns out, only UK & Germany had visitors interested. Even for Germany, we were the only ones for tourist visa. A sign of things to come :) 

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Omicron - Corona strikes back
VISA came to us by first week of December. But by this time, there was a new variant in town. First. detected in South Africa, it was spreading across the globe. India had couple of cases on 2nd December. Countries were shutting borders, starting with South Africa. Suddenly UK cases were spiking and all countries shut their borders to UK. 
We were reading the news everyday. Germany case count rose to 50K cases everyday.  Many christmas markets were cancelled, especially in the Bavaria. So, Dresden, Nuremberg, Munich markets were not happening. Our itinerary was going down the drain.
Newer mandates were coming in. Germany made restrictions to be 2G+ which meant that in order to visit any public place, you need to be either vaccinated or recovered but with a covid test no older than 24 hrs if it is Rapid Antigen test or 48 hrs if it is a PCR test. 
We were vaccinated and recovered, so no issue there. Issue was with Covid tests, Rapid tests costs 15Euro per person, PCR costs 50-Euro. Just the test costs every day will go up to 75K INR. 
In addition to this, something more interesting happened. Austria came up with some  bizarre guidelines for Indians. Indians can enter the Austria on Covishield but it will not be accepted at any restaurants, museums or public places. Smart Austria had its cake and ate it too. 
Budapest so far was ok, but our plan was Budapest-Vienna(Austria)-Frankfurt. Without Austria, even Budapest was not looking good. 

The first plan was not looking good. Silver lining was that not all christmas markets were closed. North Germany & Berlin still had markets going on. Only Bavaria had cancelled its markets. Our goal was to chase markets, so we created a new plan. 

This time, it went like this - 
Frankfurt - Trier - BadenBaden-Fussen-BadenBaden-Strasbourg-Paris-Frankfurt. 

Frankfurt & Trier still had their christmas markets going on. Trier was chosen because it has been winning the award of best christmas market in Germany! 
Our entire planning resolved Fussen because of Newscwanstein castle. This castle is in the must-todo list of all German itineraries. Its tickets were getting sold out, so even before we booked any ticket. I had booked castle visit tickets for 23rd Dec here. These were non-refundable. Hence, whatever we do, the itinerary has to be part of this. 
Given Bavaria had such tight restrictions, we thought we will go to France which was allowing Indians and Christmas markets were going in full swing. Strasbourg is next to Baden Baden and has a very famous christmas market. 

We cancelled hotel reservations of Austria/Hungary and booked new ones for Strasbourg & Paris. All fully refundable. 

Plan was still on.

But, cases were going up. Good news, not in India. India was still under 10K a day and Germany was allowing visitors from India with no restrictions. 
However Europe case count was going up, especially of France. Germany's one stabilized at around 35K. But all around Germany, things were not looking good. 

Everyday, Kanishka & I would debate whether we should go or not. Biggest fear of mine is that what happens if we go there and test positive in Germany. It would be a disaster. Not only the trip will not happen but quarantining in a hotel in Germany will be way more expensive. With no support system. This thought was scary. 

A weekend before the travel date, I thought to cancel the trip. Surprisingly, Kanishka seemed upbeat and said let's go. Her positive attitude gave confidence. We did the shopping for cold weather that was there in Germany. It was not a final decision but I was prepared. 

Finally, two days before the travel date, on 14 Dec, it seemed that Germany is still allowing visitors. We are vaccinated and recovered in last six months. Second dose vaccine was also mere three months ago. So, this would be prime immunity, it will only go down later.   We made the call to go. 

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Final plan before departure
- Land in Frankfurt. Attend the Frankfurt Christmas market
- Rent a car from Frankfurt to Baden-Baden
- Go to Trier. Attend Trier Christmas market
- Drive to Baden-Baden. Visit the baths.
- Drive to Fussen. See the castle
- Drive back to Baden-baden. Leave the car. 
- Take train to Strasbourg. 2 nights Starbourg
- 5 nights in Paris
- Train to Frankfurt and fly back. 

Since, this journey included a rental car, I had to read about car driving in Germany and its signs. It was confusing at first, more so driving in the city. 
Baden-Baden was picked because of its baths which were also called a must-do experience in Germany. Also, there was a Casino there, 200+ years old Casino.
Paris was looking very exciting with Disneyland, Notre Dame, Louvre and so many touristy things. This gave a Euro-trip feeling. Plus the christmas markets were still on there! 

Our onward journey was with Etihad which provided Covid insurance incase you test positive. They would pay 100Euros a day per person which was a good relief. Etihad in general is a very good carrier with very informative website. Our return flight was with AirIndia. Since Germany & India have air-bubble agreement, we were sure that we would fly back :) Etihad & Air-India was not by design but it was a very good combination in the end.  


With hope & slight fear we took the flight.